Although laminate flooring looks similar to wood, tile, or other popular flooring materials, it is actually a wood-composite material that has been given a clear, highly durable plastic-laminate surface similar to that used for kitchen countertops. Some patterns or styles are far more convincing than others. Be sure to make your choice carefully—if possible, see an actual floor made of the material, not just a photograph.

This type of floor is called a "floating floor," because you don't fasten it down to the subfloor. Instead, the thin planks, made with interlocking tongue-and-groove edges, are glued together with a special adhesive. The result is a single-membrane floor laid over the subfloor. This type of floor may be laid over wood, vinyl, tile, or even concrete when a moisture barrier is applied first.

With some types, you first lay a thin foam pad on the subfloor for resilience and an extra measure of protection from moisture. Because installation varies from one brand to another, be sure to follow all of the manufacturer's instructions when installing a laminate floor. Note that some types are not recommended for application where moisture can be a problem, such as in a bathroom.

Remove everything from the room. Pry off any existing base moldings—the best way to do this is to set the finishing nails through the moldings, using a nailset, then carefully pry off the moldings with a flat bar (place it against a scrap block so you don't damage the wall) and remove the nails. Be sure the subfloor is flat and clear of any debris. If your flooring system calls for a layer foam-pad base, unroll the foam and cut it to fit with scissors or a sharp utility knife.

In the order shown in the illustration, loose-lay the first three rows (without adhesive), staggering the end joints of adjoining rows 6 to 8 inches. Use spacers (or small scrap pieces of the material) to keep the first course 3/8-inch from the wall to allow room for the floor to expand.

If, after placing the first rows, the wall appears to be crooked or irregular, cut the first row of planks to fit the wall's contour. To cut curves, use a saber saw; for straight lines, use a handsaw or power-circular saw equipped with a fine-toothed blade (a carbide-tooth plywood-cutting blade works well). Be sure to wear safety glasses when cutting the material. Pick up the planks and number their backs so you'll remember where they go.

Fill the groove of each plank with adhesive and lay it in place. Again, use spacers to hold the first row away from the wall 3/8 inch. As you install additional rows, set a wood block against the long edge of each plank and tap it with a hammer to force it tightly together with its mate. Adhesive is likely to ooze out of the joints—wipe this up with a damp cloth. When you must run flooring up to an obstacle, such as a door casing, it's usually best to cut off the bottom of the casing rather than to notch the flooring to fit. Just butt a short scrap of the flooring against the casing and lay the blade of a handsaw flat against it so the scrap serves as a guide.

To mark the final row for fit, place a full-width plank directly over the last installed row. Then butt a scrap piece of the flooring against the wall and mark the cutting line along the full-width plank with a pencil as shown. Don't cut directly along the pencil mark—instead, cut so the resulting piece will be about 3/8 inch narrower to allow for expansion.

Finally, reinstall each piece of base molding. Slightly set the heads of finishing nails below the surface, fill the holes with spackling compound, and touch up with paint.